UMBAGOG LAKE STATE PARK
Think about the absolute edge of New Hampshire. That is where you find Umbagog. If you drive up to Errol, you will quickly realize cell service dies. But that is the point. You go here to get lost on the water. We are talking about 7,850 acres of water straddling the Maine border. You can pitch a tent right on the shoreline. Actually, some campsites require a boat just to reach them.
Don't expect fancy resort amenities here. Instead, pack your kayak and prepare to share the water with nesting bald eagles. Seriously, the birdwatching is unmatched. You might float right past a moose munching on pond lilies at sunrise. Anglers flock here too. They pull fat smallmouth bass and brook trout out of the shallows. The nights get incredibly quiet once the sun drops behind the pine trees. You just hear loons. It beats sitting in traffic on Route 16, honestly.
Long before tourists pitched tents, Abenaki people fished these shallow waters. Then came the loggers. For decades, giant timber conglomerates like the Brown Company and later MeadWestvaco owned the shoreline. They saw the water as a highway, not a vacation spot. Every spring, lumberjacks dumped millions of board feet of spruce and fir into the water, floating them down to the paper mills in Berlin. Look closely at the lakeside rocks. You can still find hand-forged iron rings driven straight into the granite. Loggers used them to anchor giant booms.
Things started shifting in the late 1900s. Conservation groups and the state stepped in during the late 1990s to buy the land, saving it from development. But the industrial past didn't just vanish. Take the Errol Dam, a structure first built out of timber back in the 1850s to control those massive log drives. It still regulates the water level today. In the late nineteenth century, steamships actually chugged across these waters, carrying wealthy vacationers to rustic sporting camps. Now, only kayakers paddle those quiet coves. A pretty wild transformation.
- T Walker